Cinderella Story at 2013 Taste of Camas

by Seth Sjostrom

OK, so those that know Chef Tim McCusker realize this is no Cinderella story. Though facing a three-time champion in Chef Peter Echeverio would be a daunting task for anyone. If you have the pleasure to know either of these gentlemen, then you understand that both are accomplished chefs, but moreover, both are wonderful people in our community.

Camas Iron Chef Judge’s Choice winner — made by Team McCusker.

Team Echeverio’s primary dish. His team won the People’s Choice.

The annual event supports the Camas Education Foundation – a group dedicated to enhancing the lives of all students in the Camas School District. Run completely by volunteers, the group is closing in on one million dollars in grants funded for innovation throughout Camas schools over the past fifteen years.

Chef Peter Echeverio, husband of Camas School Teacher Heidi Echeverio at Helen Baller Elementary, has held the title of Camas Iron Chef three times. With the clock ticking away constantly behind you, a talented opponent on the other side of the kitchen and a new crew each year, knocking down an Iron Chef hat-trick was no easy task to be sure.

This year, the culinary challenger was Chef Tim McCusker, owner of Harvest Restaurant in historic downtown Camas. A self-described gastronomic mad scientist, McCusker is known for creativity and flat-out ingenuity in the kitchen. Teamed with Helen Baller Principal Aaron Parman (that’s right, Heidi Echverio’s school), community member Karen Kennedy and Camas High student Rachel Greene, McCusker rarely seemed rattled in this battle of cuisine.

Echeverio’s team, Dorothy Fox Elementary principal Cathy Sork, community member June Greene (the makings of a Greene family feud) and Hayes Freedom High School student Scott Lakey were equally unflappable. Chef Echeverio’s calm was ever present as he paused frequently to speak to the crowd, discussing the ingredients and his methods throughout preparation.

Dessert from Team McCusker. Delicious!

This year, a few curve balls were thrown at the venerable contenders. The first, was including a separate dish for the People’s Choice Awards. Fifty lucky participants would get to enjoy a sample of the chefs’ handiwork and cast their assessment in this new category. Secondly, an optional “secret ingredient” was sprung on the kitchen crews. Assorted flavors of Sparkling Ice by Talking Rain was chilling in a bucket of ice. Then, the big moment. The main ingredient – Black Truffle Coppa (dry cured cappicola – a type of artisan Italian ham) courtesy of The Beautiful Pig.

The timer was set and the teams dashed into action, filling skillets and buckets full of the required ingredients and accoutrements. The chefs pulled their teams in close and began mapping out their meals and assignments. The light hearted chiding began almost as quickly as the cooking did. Chef Tim and Chef Peter enjoyed the day offering their assistance to one another’s team, slapping a “bathroom this way” sign pointing towards a team’s kitchen and suggesting the other had supplied the secret ingredient itself. As an observer, it was obvious each chef’s talent and experience afforded them a level of calm and confidence that prevailed all of the way to the one minute warning which came with both teams comfortably finished with their platings.

Chef Echeverio employed expert techniques with his dishes, injecting solid flavor across his meal. Even walking past his station, you were greeted with aromas that instantly whet your appetite. He noted he had his own secret ingredient – locally owned Choffy, a roasted and ground cocoa bean. This rich, pure ground chocolate was rolled into his herbed cheese roll and looked as delicious as it tasted.

In the other kitchen, Chef McCusker was full swing into his mad-cap science kitchen genius using a fire extinguisher to instant-chill a batch of homemade ice cream. Yes kids, this does work, just make sure you use a spare fire extinguisher. McCusker’s team seemed as surprised as the audience with the dramatic technique but went quickly to work to complete the concoction, wafts of carbon-dioxide smoke pluming in the air.

Mayors Scott Higgins and Sean Guard were on hand with Karen Lasher (who started the CEF-sponsored Iron Chef competition four years ago) to judge the proceedings. But before they were afforded their taste buds and voices, it was the People’s Choice Award. Chef Echeverio presented a coconut rice and chicken with fingerling potato. The flavors were perfectly orchestrated throughout the dish and were a big hit with the crowd.

Chef McCusker’s fire extinguisher turned kitchen appliance coconut/pineapple ice cream (including bonus ingredient Sparkling Ice) was dished out over a sweet savory capicola and peach relish. When the results came in, Echverio’s flavor ousted McCusker’s ingenuity by one single vote. Scoreboard: People’s Choice Award goes to Chef Ecehverio and team.

The main event began with the challenger’s presentation. “I was excited to see the secret ingredient. It is a great protein,” McCusker admitted. Thin slices of Coppa were seared under pressure of a ladle to form little ham cups. Adding bacon, balsamic vinegar, blue cheese to spiced candy pecans finished with a Dijon sauce, Chef McCusker conducted his team to strike a flavorful balance. Using Sockeye Salmon as a secondary protein, chef included a salad made of shredded apple, Navidi’s Jalapeno Salt, cucumbers and red peppers. Knocking the flavor out of the park, McCusker added a vinaigrette made from Strawberry Sparkling Ice whisked with sugar, pepper, salt, honey, oil and vinegar. Hungry yet? We aren’t done.

Next up, reigning champion Echeverio’s squad. Chef Echeverio shared his modus operandi, “I came in with a basic meal pre-planned, hoping to accommodate a variety of proteins with the secret ingredient in mind.” Veering from the expected, Echeverio’s team focused the judged meals on an opening appetizer and a dessert. The “Camas Board Appetizer” was the primary usage of the main ingredient. Show cases a wide variety of flavors that were selected to create taste bud harmony, the coppa was served with a Choffy and herb cheese log and beautifully display of seasoned veggies. For the capper, a Choffy Chocolate Mousse with raspberries was served alongside a Sparkling Ice Bellini with blended raspberries and peaches.

When the judge’s votes were tallied, only one of these great chef’s and their teams could wear the crown…err…apron. A Taste of Camas shocker, Chef Echeverio’s reign came to an end, only moments after winning the People’s Choice. Chef McCusker used all of his years of experience, globetrotting and culinary genius to command a convincing win.

If you have ever met either Chef McCusker or Chef Echeverio or enjoyed a meal prepared by either, then you would know that this day had all winners and no losers. Just two great chefs, great men with dutiful teams, giving back to the community and the schools in the Camas School District.

“It’s always been such a great event,” shares Chef Echeverio. “Both teams did great. I really liked the family and kids oriented activities this year. I hope to see the event expand on that next year.”

Chef McCusker was equally charmed by the Taste of Camas Iron Chef event — “It was a great show – exciting, tense, fun. I had a great team to work with. I think they lied to me. They each claimed to not be very experienced, but they worked the kitchen with great knowledge, even knocking the dishes out before time ran out.”

As for the fire extinguisher ice cream, “Yeah, I love that. The thing is, with some old extinguishers, they weren’t grounded very well. You get a little shock when you discharge them. Principal Parman took it very well.” He added, “I was honored. I can’t wait until next year.”

I couldn’t agree more, I have my fork ready.

Congratulations Chef McCusker and Chef Echeverio. Great job Camas Educational Foundation.

Three-time Iron Chef Peter Echeverio is chef at New Season’s Market in Fisher’s Landing in Vancouver.

Iron Chef Tim McCusker is the owner and executive chef at Harvest Restaurant, 401 NE 4th St., Camas WA 98671, 360-210-4037, [email protected].